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Skyhawl181213

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This video of Skyhawk was recorded yesterday evening, 3 days after the competition in which he took 2nd place.

He seems to have recovered remarkably from the stress of the competition but his inner beak, while darkish, is still not completely dark as it will be when he reaches top form.  I expect that his form will continue to improve and he may reach top form in time for the competition on 29 December 2013.

Looking through my records, I find that Skyhawk hatched in June, 2005.  He is therefore about 8 1/2 years old.  Shamas reach full maturity and their competition prime at about 4 years of age so he is past his prime for competition. He is now less active in his display than when he was younger.

Apart from a less vigorous display, Skyhawk hardly shows his years and can be mistaken for a bird that is less than half his age. Look, for example, at his legs and toes and you will see that they are smooth and missing the scales that even a 2 years old shama may have.  Skyhawk's lack of scales on his feet is completely natural as I have never removed (or had the need to remove), scales from the feet of my captive-bred shamas. Skyhawk's youngish look and ability is an example of what can be achieved with proper selective breeding, care and conditioning.




Artificial Incubation - Part 2

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Hi Trisno,

I refer to your email of today's date and answer your questions below:

1. The movement of the chick.

When will be the best time for breeder to move the chick from the incubator or hatcher to brooder as the chick needs more humidity which may not be supplied by the incubator.

DDS: I transfer the chicks from the incubator to the brooder immediately after hatching or shortly before hatching.  As turning of the egg is not required during the last 2 days before hatching and as the initial temperature in the brooder is about 36 degrees, the egg that is about to hatch can be transferred to the brooder shortly before the chick hatches.


2. Temperature

What are the suitable temperatures in the brooder from time to time for the chick based on the hours or days after hatching. I assume the temperature will change based on the chick's age.

DDS: I sat the brooder temperature at about 36 degrees for the newly hatched chick and lower the temperature by 1 degree for each day thereafter until 32 degrees.  I do not lower the temperature below this.  If the chicks are cared for by the parents the mother will stop brooding the chicks from the 3rd or 4th day.  When I have chicks in the brooder, I keep them there until they start to feather at about 4 to 5 days old.

3. First hand feeding

When will be the best time for first hand feeding to the chick? And what food do you usually give the chick for the first?

DDS: The first 2 days are the most critical.  The breeder needs to ensure that the chicks are not over-fed.  It is more likely that the chicks will perish from over-feeding rather than insufficient feeding.  Wait 2 or even 3 hours after the chick hatches before feeding it.  Start with a white (newly moulted) mealworm.  Soften it by pressing it then remove and discard the ends.  Dip the mealworm in a light vitamin B solution (for the first feed) then feed it to the chick.  Feed the chick every 1 1/2 to 2 hours with mealworms (crickets etc) that have been dipped in water.  Other than this, there is no need to feed water to the chick. If the chick is healthy and eating well, you can practically see it growing slightly bigger with each feed.  Feed as much as the chick will eat each time. The healthy chick will instinctively raise its head to be fed in-between feeding times if it senses that you are nearby. Do not be tempted to feed it in-between the feeding times. If the chick is eating and digesting the mealworms well, it should eat about 1 1/2 mealworms by the 4th feed or so. I then start to feed small crickets together with/ or without mealworms. Soften the crickets then remove its head and legs.  I dip the cricket in a multi-vitamin, plus vitamin B, and mineral solution for the first 1 or 2 feeds each day.  I start adding guppies to the diet from the 3rd day.  The guppies need to be softened of course.  I add frogs to the diet from the 4 day.  I do not feed fish or frog  for the first feed in the morning and the last feed in the evening as the chicks may get an upset stomach.  The morning feed starts at 8 am or so and the last feed is at about 7 pm.

4. Other issues

I would appreciate if you could share any other information which must also be highlighted in the treatment of the newly hatched chick other than the above.

DDS: I have tried to cover whatever I thought you might need to know. If you have any other queries, please feed free to ask.

Btw, I have treated all my shamas in breeding with nekton e and s for one week full. To my observation during this treatment, it still has no further development and they tend to be more quiet and calm in singing. What do you think of this? 

DDS: The birds in the house are familiar with the songs of each other and there will probably be little change in the songs and display.  To test if the form has gone up you will need to introduce a strange shama to them.

For breeding aid supplement, do you buy in singapore or online purchase?

DDS: The Goodwill birdshop in Singapore carries the Vetafarm brand.  I also buy online.  For quite sometime I have been purchasing the supplements for myself and my birds from iherb.com.  I mostly feed my birds with human supplements nowadays that I get from iherb.com.  It is the best online store for vitamins and supplements.

Best regards,

David 
Description: https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/images/cleardot.gif


Preparing for competition

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The last video that I uploaded of Skyhawk, (recorded last Wednesday, 3 days after the competition), showed him to be active and singing.  However, he had not yet fully recovered from the competition as you will no doubt note if you compare his performance in this video with the earlier videos on this blog.  You will notice that his voice in the latest video is a little ragged and not as melodious.

It took another 2 days, i.e. until Friday evening, for the voice to fully recover.  By last Saturday, when I had 2 visitors with their shamas, he seemed to have fully recovered.

I expect that Skyhawk will be in good form for the competition this coming Sunday.  I have no reason to think that he will not do well though I must qualify that I am still a newbie in competitions and lack the experience to be able to accurately assess the readiness of a bird for competition.

For the forthcoming competition, I am caring for Skyhawk in the usual way - dry food during the day with live food only in the evening.  His cage in the home is also where it has been for several weeks, i.e as far away from the other singing shamas as possible. Too often, we change the food or the bird's environment to the bird's detriment in the 1 to 2 weeks before a competition, in the expectation that "better" food and more care will improve the bird's performance. I think that it is more important to have consistency and this is what I am trying out.

No matter how Skyhawk performs this coming Sunday, I would wish to enter him for another competition soon after that, say sometime in late January or early February, next year.  This would give me the opportunity to test his consistency if he does well in the competition or to try to remedy any perceived deficiencies if he does not do well.  Unfortunately, as at today, I understand that no shama competition is scheduled for January or early February next year.  This leaves me with the perennial problem of whether to breed Skyhawk after Sunday's competition or to continue to keep him for another competition, the date of which is uncertain.

Apart from Skyhawk, I would like to compete Jazz and Goose during the first half of next year. Jazz has just completed his third molt and will need at least another month or so for his form to rise suficiently, so he will not be in time for the competition this Sunday.  I expect that he can be competed from mid-February next year.  There is much to do in the meantime as I need to get him used to vehicle travel and the presence of people and shamas.

I began Jazz's training yesterday.  I transferred him from the aviary to the cage and took him for a drive to Michael's home.  As I do not have a van or station-wagon his cage could not be placed upright in the vehicle.  Instead, it must be placed length wise so the cage lies on its side on the rear seat of the car.  This is always more stressful for the bird than if the cage is upright but Jazz showed no visible signs of stress from the journey.

Goose is presently undergoing his 3rd molt and the new tails are about 3".  He is a direct son of Ballet Dancer with a young female. He is molting well and should complete his molt by the end of February next year.  His training can only begin after his molt is completed. I hope to be able to train him and have him ready for competition from mid-April next year but the training may need to take longer as he is a bit wild and will need more training than Jazz.

BTW, I am looking for a male lovebird with a longish song so that my shamas can learn its song.  If anyone has a lovebird that sings for at least 1/2 minute and would be prepared to sell it, please let me know.  Presently, some of my shamas have learnt the Samyong song and also a very melodious song of a pied shama that I acquired about 6 months ago.  I would like them to also learn the chittering song of the lovebird which can be very nice when sung by the shama.

Outlook for captive-breeding of shamas in Malaysia

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[Letter from Mohd Anuar to DDS dated 26 Dec 2013]

Dear Sir,
I am a Malaysian and my hobby is the shama. I would like to visit you sir at Singapore to learn more about shama breeding.
Here in Malaysia I am in the fruits and honey business. I have a papaya plantation of about 5 acres on which I make my living.
I am serious about breeding the shama.  I have bought 4 males and 2 females at a total cost of Rm16 K.  I have also invested in building a compound of 20 x 40 ft in which I have an initial 4 (5 x 6 x 6 ) breeding compartments.
Here in Malaysia, I can’t get much information about breeding the shama and I need some expert to help me with my program.
I first got involved in the shama in Sept 2013 when I bought my first shama at a cost of RM1,800.  I received advice from some people that I should not get involved in the shama hobby because the Malaysian government requires the owner of a shama to have a permit to keep it.  Because of this, I tried to sell the shama with 9” tails that had been caught in July through the Singapore shama group website. However, I then did not know the rule that we Malaysians can’t easily sell birds to Singapore without proper document. I therefore decided to keep the bird and to apply for a permit to do so.  I have visited Jabatan Perhilitan (Wildlife and National Parks Department) and I have managed to acquire 3 permits to keep shamas.
Now that I have the permits, there is no need for me to give up the hobby and I am very interested in going deeply into shama breeding.
I have an ongoing discussion with Perhilitan regarding breeding shamas.  Its officers have visited my area and they acknowledge that I have 6 shamas for this purpose.  My understanding is that the officers are in favor of approving a breeding permit for my program.
I give thanks to god that, based on the information on your blog, I have been able to convince Jabatan Perhilitan that the shama can be bred.
Thanks again to you sir for successfully breeding the shama and making the information available for reference on your blog.  I can assure you that without your efforts, the shama hobby is a dead end in Malaysia because to acquire a permit depends on luck (only 100 permits are given a year for each state) and as a hobby we cannot depend on luck to fulfil our desire. 
Lastly but not least many of my friends and relatives ask me a question, “Why Mohd do you get involved in this hobby, which is very difficult to maintain and requires a lot of time to be spent? The answer from me is that the hobby gives me natural peace for my inner self. My heart is far from world gimmicks where people get crazy with clubbing, drinking sexing, etc etc and I get self-peace from bird-keeping.
Still as a shama lover, I am very sad deep in my heart that I have been selfish for my happiness, that I have bought and caged this beautiful wild bird. This beautiful god gifted animal is the first animal in heven to inspire prophet Adam for a life partner as a lover.
Therefore I have set my mind not to buy much more wild-caught shama and this led me, as a bird lover, to breed captive birds in future.
Please reply and thanks
Truly Sincere
Mohd Anuar Amin

Hi Mohd,
You need to be aware that I don't have a bird farm.  I am just a hobbyist with a few birds for my own enjoyment.  Much of what I have to say about shamas is already on my blog so there may be limited usefulness in visiting me.  If you nevertheless think that it may be useful to meet and exchange ideas, you are welcome to visit.
Your email is very informative. May I have your permission to to publish it on my blog.
Best regards,
David

To David
https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/images/cleardot.gif
Dear Sir,
A very thank you for the reply. Regarding my email, you have my permission to publish it on your beautiful blog and I am so happy for our friends out there.
Yes I have been through your blog and its very informative.  As mentioned in my earlier email to you, without the information of your experience which has been put into your shama blog, it would have been so difficult for me to convince Jabatan Perhilatan that the shama can be bred successfully.  I did mention to pengarah (director) myself about your best efforts for shama lovers out there.
But let me tell you this sir. I felt seriously unhappy and guilty in my heart using all your information without asking permission from you and that's why I need to meet you and thank you.
Sir you have been a teacher to all shama lovers and we must respect you as a teacher. To meet you in person even without exchanging a single word means a lot in my heart.
We, as shama lovers have benefitted from your loss (afford time money thinking etc).
For that I Thank You Teacher.
Truly from my Heart 

Mohd Anuar Amin

Skyhawk

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Skyhawk placed 6th out of about 70 shamas in the Bukit Purmei Zone 'B' Residents' Committee Shama Bird Singing Contest yesterday. The competition was managed by the Shama Club of Singapore and the judging was in accordance with its rules.

I felt that Skyhawk performed very well with regards to frequency, consistency, loudness and variety of song.  However, he hardly displayed and should have got little or no marks for this section. This was probably the cause of his lower ranking.  He displayed less than in the competition 2 weeks ago and it may be that he may not have fully recovered from it.

There is no day competition scheduled in the next month or so and, rather than wait for one, I have paired him with a female yesterday.

Preparing for competition

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Preparing for competition

NGTC to DDS, 25thDecember 2013

Hi David,
Read your blog on the above and I fully agree with you that consistency is very important, afterall if the form of that shama has peaked in that manner BAU should therefore be maintained as much as possible.

I have seen 2 casual shama friends pushing their shamas hard in their preparation work, ramping up the amount chai sessions as well as on the foods, and sadly both their shamas failed to perform on the big day though one of them was pretty consistency at the chai arena.  Sometimes the more "kan cheong" you are the worse it becomes.

You mentioned that after molting the form could rise in about a month and thereafter how long will this form last and when would there be a peak?  Of course I am presuming the best care has been given.

Regards,
TC

Hi TC,

Consistency, to me, does not mean that we should do the same thing over and over again with never any change whatsoever.  It means making any changes gradually and only after we have reason to think that the change will be beneficial.

As I lack much competition experience, I myself need to give thought to try to determine what is required to bring a male shama to top form and to maintain him there for extended periods.  I am lucky in that I already have a sound base from my years of keeping and breeding shamas.  I therefore have the basic knowledge and all that is required is to try to tweak what I have been doing in order to prepare the bird for competition.   I should note that for breeding purposes, the shama need not be in competition form.  Just as humans do not need to be athletes to beget children, so also shamas do not need to be in competition form in order to be successfully paired.

To be a top competitor and to be regularly successful in competitions requires the shama to be brought to a substantially higher level of performance than a breeding shama.  The competition shama needs to sing and display under the stress of having many other shamas in close proximity to it for over 2 hours or more.  This is something that is not required of a shama in the home.  To be in competition form also requires the shama to be accustomed to transportation, the presence of other shamas in good form and also the presence of people.  All this needs to be done over a period of many months so that sometime before the competition the bird is already ready and all that is required in the final 2 weeks is to maintain the form.

Michael just came back from a trip to Thailand where he visited Jambul farms and also met and spent time with one of the top Jambul competitors there.  He was told by the top Jambul competitor that his birds are prepared for competition with proper food and care and, in the final 2 weeks before a competition, the birds that are intended for competition are kept secluded from other Jambuls.  I would think that the same applies to shamas. Contrast this with some of our local shama competitors who bring their birds to the chai tio regularly and even the week before a competition.  Such a bird is unlikely to have fully recovered before it is required to perform again.

If we are to successfully compete our shamas, we should try to understand and accommodate their individual personalities and remove anything that causes them unnecessary stress in the home.  For instance, you may find that a shama may not like a particular location in the home.  He may be restless when his cage is placed in that location and may seem to be more comfortable somewhere else.  When I see this, I transfer the cage to the place where the shama seems comfortable and try to consistently keep him there.  

I could go on and on with regard to what I think is required to prepare a shama for competition but what I have is still only theory which will need to be tested and proven correct by actual competition.  This is something I have just started to do.  I am looking forward to the forthcoming competition this coming Sunday to see if I am on the right path with what I have been doing.

I answer below your query regarding the form after molt.

If the shama has been well cared for during the molt, its form will begin to rise even before the molt is completed.  It should continue to rise and the bird will be in breeding condition about 1 1/2 months after the molt is completed.  I would think that this is when its testosterone will be at its highest and this will be the peak of the bird's form. I have tried to mate males that seem to be in good form before 1 1/2 months have passed after molting.  Whilst the male will accept the female, I have found that if she lays eggs shortly after the pairing, the eggs tend to be infertile.

The shama should molt only once a year.  If it molts more than this, the molt is induced by stress of some kindthe form should gradually rise after the molt and then go down as the molt approaches.  

A bird with tails of say, 6 inches, will take about 1 1/2 months to complete the molt of its tails while a 12" bird will take about double the time.  Often, the head and body feathers will start to molt about 2 to 3 weeks before the tails are shed.  A short tailed bird will therefore be in good form about 1 1/2 months longer than a long tailed bird.  The form should start to deteriorate about a month before the bird starts to molt.

A short-tailed bird should therefore potentially be in good form for about 8 1/2 months while a long-tailed bird should be in good form for about 7 months.

Hope the above helps.

Best regards,


David

Chilli's son

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This is Chilli's son at the age of 10 days, shortly after he emerged from the nest.  Chilli was bred by me and he is now owned by Darren Yeo.

Chilli's son was hatched in an incubator and Darren hand-fed him from day one.  Even at this young age, he has the structure and bearing of his father.  I think he is one of the nicest chicks of his age that I have seen.

I estimate Chilli's tails to be presently about 14" (after the 2nd molt) and the hope is that he will be able to pass on his tail length, as well as all his other desirable characteristics, to his progeny.  On present assessment, this chick looks fabulous with the potential to be an outstanding adult male in the future.



Correcting falshoods

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I understand that Alan Pang has (amongst other things), told some potential buyers of his shamas that his birds are “almost as good” as mine and that he taught me everything about hand-rearing shamas.   I suppose he said this to try to impress potential buyers of his ability and knowledge in shamas so as to try to raise the market value of his birds.

I will not comment on Alan’s claim that his shamas are comparable to mine.  Those who are interested can visit his blog and see for themselves the photos and videos of his birds and draw their own conclusions. 

I wish to comment in this post mainly on his claim that that he had taught me everything about hand-rearing shama chicks.  Actually, his statement was that he had tried to teach me all he knows about shama rearing but I “also can’t”, and I had failed to successfully hand-rear them.

Personally, I really don’t care what Alan says, but it is important that potential buyers of his birds  know the type of person he is as it may assist them to better understand if any representations that he makes about his shamas can be relied upon. People who think he is a friend may also wish to reconsider the extent and value of his "friendship".

I do not know Alan’s actual motive in bad mouthing me, especially as I have always tried to be friendly and helpful to him.  Amongst other things, I even referred potential buyers to him who then bought his birds.  For example, on 19th May 2013, I received an email enquiring if I had shamas for sale.  I replied:

I presently don’t have any shamas for sale.  You may wish to check with Alan Pang who may have.  For an idea of prices and quality visit his website at whiterumpshamacollections.blogspot.com”.

This person bought a shama from Alan and he has told me that the only reason that he did so was because of my referral.

Subsequently, when this same person wanted to buy a female shama from Alan, they had a whatsapp conversation that included the topic of hand rearing. I reproduce below an extract of their conversation. Bear in mind that I had only recently referred this buyer to him and he hardly knew this person.

Buyer: “No one can be as good as u in handrearing”
Alan:  “Not easy lah.  I teach dds so many time he oso cant”
Buyer: “U sure got yr secret tactic la”.  
Alan: “Sure have but I teach him everything he still fail.”

Alan has in fact taught me nothing about hand-rearing shama chicks and whatever I know on the subject was obtained through my own efforts and experience.   There can be no doubt about this as it is on record that I had hand-raised more than a hundred shama chicks (including those hatched in an incubator) even as at June 2008, i.e. long before Alan had learnt from my blog, how to keep shamas successfully. The records that I refer to are set out below.

On my website shama.com.sg (which I updated from 2004 to 2008), I had set out the temperature for hatching shama eggs:

“At what temperature should shama eggs be incubated?
I have consistently and successfully hatched Shama eggs in an incubator at a temperature of 37.4 degrees centigrade.  The temperature in the egg will increase slightly as the chick is about to hatch.  For this reason the temperature of the incubator should be reduced by one degree the day before the egg is expected to hatch”

Further, in June 2008, I posted on my blog, “ I have hand-fed (rather my wife has) more than a hundred shama chicks, or about half of the shama chicks that I have bred and my opinion below is offered from this perspective.”

And in October 2008, also on my blog: “I hatch my shama eggs at 37.4 degrees Celsius and reduce the temperature to 36 degrees 2 days before the eggs are due to hatch.  When the newly hatched chicks are placed in the brooder, the temperature is maintained at 35 degrees for a day before it is reduced by 1 degree a day.  When the chicks start to feather, the temperature is turned off.  I may then continue to keep them in the brooder or transfer them with the nest to a cage.”

The undisputed fact is that whatever success Alan has had in keeping and breeding shamas is mainly attributable to the information that he obtained from me directly or from my blog. He has acknowledged as much in a post on his blog dated 8th February 2011, where he wrote: 

I have been following Mr Davids Blog since I restart to keep shama.  It is because of him I find out the reason of how I loss all my shama years back, without his blog infor I don’t think I dare to take the chance again.  He even offered solid advise whenever i email him, what a great guy..! Btw, till today, I still don’t [know] him or how he look like.”

Again, on 25th January, 2012 he posted on his blog: 

DDS ever told me, he says it is always easier to breed in the first year but it gets harder and harder when one has more Shamas at one place.  It is true, lucky for me to have a good friend like him to pre warn me on what is going to happen and what to expect. [NB. Apparently, the value of friendship to some people is what they can benefit from it]  I am also glad that with the help of the most reliable incubator and DDS “brand” Brooder, I have successfully incubate 8 eggs and bring up 8 chicks without casualty! 

It will be seen that I had successfully hand-raised shama chicks long before 2011 when Alan started breeding shamas. Further, Alan admits that his previous attempts at keeping shamas had failed until he learnt about shamas from my blog and in email correspondence with me.  It will therefore be appreciated that his claim that he had taught me to hand-raise chicks but I still could not successfully do so, cannot be true.  I wouldn’t be surprised if some people think that it is despicable for him to have made such a claim.

In the above whatsapp conversation, Alan also falsely claimed that all his female shamas are the "offspring from his [my] male birds." This is clearly not true as, of the 40 or so females that he claims to have bred at the time of the conversation, it is within my knowledge that at the most, only 2 or 3 were the offspring from the 2 male birds bred by me.  These males were provided by their owners to him under a chick sharing arrangement.

I should mention that sometime ago a friend of mine whom Alan also knew bought a taimong from him.  At the time of sale, Alan told this buyer that it would have tails of 11” or 12” after the 1st or 2nd molt.  He also said that if the buyer was not happy with the bird, he would exchange it.  The buyer did not like the character or something about the bird and Alan changed it.  After the molt, the buyer still did not like its character and he also did not like the tails that were about 7” (the tails were about 7 1/2" after the 2nd molt).  I saw the bird and suggested to Alan that he should change it as the buyer had not got what he had paid for.  His reply was that he had already changed once and could not be expected to do so again. The buyer eventually sold the bird at a fraction of the price that he had paid for it and mentioned to me that "once was enough".

Notwithstanding that Alan has learnt about shama keeping and breeding from information that I freely provided, his attitude now seems to be that he knows a lot and he should keep such information to himself, even from friends.  

A mutual friend informed me just the other day, that he had asked Alan as to the temperature setting of the brooder for a newly hatched chick and Alan had replied that such information was “a trade secret”.  Obviously, for some people, it’s wonderful that others share information with them but its not OK for them to pass on the same information.   Surely, this shows the character of the man.





Comment on article on Correcting falshoods

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Timothy Sinulingga



6th January, 2014

Good Morning Uncle David, 

I just read the article on your blog titled, Correcting Falsehoods. I just wanted to say that I started to read your sharing regarding shamas on MBF in 2008 and later on you made your own blog.

I have searched and read many articles and personal blogs and I also joined the facebook group regarding shamas, but I can say that so far I NEVER find the site that is as informative as your blog and your comments in other forums. 

I had even planned to copy and paste the articles you wrote in your blog as sometimes I worry that one day your blog may not be accessible anymore :-).  Actually I translated some articles that you wrote and I printed them and shared with my friends.

Back to your article, I think it is the same  principle with breeding shamas. Some shamas have good character and some have bad character.  In the end those with bad characters will be abandoned 

Again, please allow me to thank you for what you have been sharing with shama lovers. 

Wish you and your family a Happy New Year and May God bless 

Best regards, 
Timothy Sinulingga 

Batam - Indonesia

2013 Season

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My fifth generation line-bred white-rumped shama chick.  It is 18 days old.  It began learning to take food from the floor of the cage 4 days ago. Now, at 18 days of age, it is able to take food for itself from a tray on the floor of the cage. Hand-feeding is still necessary though not so frequently.


Let me share with you a story that a buyer of shamas from a breeder told me.

The seller of shamas had bred the species for only approximately 2 years.  He was asked by the buyer of a shama from him for his views on line-breeding.  He said he was against it.  He gave as his reason that the 2nd generation would produce "nuts and fools" as he put it.  Thankfully, this has not been my experience.  In fact, I think that if the breeder knows what he is doing, the quality of line-bred birds should progressively improve.

To successfully line-breed, the breeder needs to start with stock that have all or most of the qualities that he intends to produce in his birds.  The foundation stock should have as little defects as possible.  Then only can the breeder hope to achieve his dreams.  I can only assume that the above breeder did not have good foundation stock to start with and he is achieving very inferior results even  with his 2nd generation.

Artificial Incubation - Part 3

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[Trisno's letter of yesterday's date with my reply in red for easy reference]
Hi Trisno,
Glad to see that you are having success with your artificial incubation.  I answer your queries below:

Hi David,

How are you? Hope you are OK.

Just want to update and share my experiences with you related to my earlier email to you.

1.                  I have successfully hatched 1 shama egg (of 2 eggs) using the artificial incubation. Thanks for your advices on this. On 6 January 2014, I took 2 eggs from the nest and put them straight away in the incubator at the same day because I assume the eggs have been for more than two days in the nest. Do you think if this is the case I still have to wait for one to two days before placing it to the incubator based on your explanation whereby a fresh egg should not be immediately placed to the incubator?

DDS: I think the advice that the eggs should be placed in the incubator only a couple of days after it is laid is meant to imitate what happens when the female shama itself broods the eggs.  In the wild and often in captivity, the female will not start to sit until the 2ndlast, or last, egg is laid.  This means that the first 2 eggs (out of say, 4 eggs) will not be actively incubated until the 3rd or 4th egg is laid.  I do not think it is critical to wait for 2 days before artificially incubating the eggs.


2.                  On fifth day of incubation (10 January 2014), the electricity is off for more than 5 hours. On the second hours when the electricity is off, I put the eggs to my old incubator (using 2 lamps) whereby the heat comes from the candle which is lighted under the incubator. However, the temperature for sure becomes highly uncontrollable. Do you have any similar experiences when the power is off?

DDS: In the place where I stay, the electricity supply is reliable and I do not have experience with power failure when incubating the eggs.  If this is a problem where you live, you may want to consider getting a standby battery that will automatically switch on whenever there is a power failure, such as what is available for computers. 

It may interest you to know that, as an experiment, I have artificially hatch poultry eggs in a homemade incubator.  I used an oil lamp with a short wick that is placed in a box with holes in the sides.  I can keep the temperature reasonably constant by the number, size and location of the holes.  A tray of water is put in the box to provide the humidity.  As you no doubt know from the lessons in school, hot rises and cool air will replace it.  In effect, this is what a still-air incubator does.  The eggs will need to be turned by hand several times a day.  With shama eggs, I think turning 3 to 4 times a days is sufficient.

3.                  Right after the electricity was on, I candled the eggs for the first time which the result was the moving embryos lived in those eggs. However, in the third candling on 14 January 2014, I found one egg did not develop while the other has developed and the embryo has been dark and filled the entire egg. Do you think the shut power has affected the said egg? I understand that the “living egg” must be separated from the “dead egg” which can arise a toxic gas. The question will be how much is the affect for the "living egg" if it remains to be incubated with the "dead egg" since this case is normal in natural incubation?
DDS: The electricity shut-down could have affected egg development.  If the eggs are together for the length of the incubation period, I do not think that the spoilt eggs will affect the other eggs.  As you note, in normal incubation, all the eggs continue to remain together in the nest for the period of incubation.
4.                  In the morning of 16 January 2014 (in the beginning of 11th day), the egg was successfully hatched (the photo is attached). On the first day, the chick is fine and I do not have any problems with chick feeding based on your advice.

DDS: Wonderful.  Just bear in mind not to overfeed the chick.  More chicks die from overfeeding than underfeeding.

5.                  The shama pair of this egg is indeed incredible. Previously, I have actually paired this male shame with 5 females, but it always fails since the male always fights and bites all the females. The funny thing when pairing these shamas, this last female fights back to death and bites the male shama until the male finally surrender and welcome the female. I get this female shama from my friend in Aceh who is also an administrator of muraibatuaceh.blogspot.com. Thanks Om Herry. 

DDS: It is a good sign when the male gives in to the female.  He is much more powerful than the female and can easily kill her if he chooses.  I have great admiration for Om Herry who is popularly known as HerryAcheh and I regularly visit his blog.  Herry is very knowledgeable about shamas and, I think,  has contacts to obtain them from trappers. If you are interested in breeding long-tailed shamas, Herry may be able to assist since Acheh is the only province in Indonesia that is known to still have long-tailed shamas in the wild.

6.                  If you don’t mind, I will come back to you with more update on the chick.

DDS: I will be delighted to have further news on the progress of the chick.

Best regards,

David

Letter from Indonesia - "Batman" shama

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24th January 2014

Hi David,

Been following your post for quite sometime. Lovely I must say!

My name is Ali and I'm from Singapore but living in Medan, Indonesia. Been keeping songbirds like jambul n puteh since I was a kid but have little experience in Shamas!

I bought 4 shamas here to 'keep me company'! Haha! My problem is one of the shama is in heat or what they call here 'batman'.

I don't breed so what do u think i should do. This particular shama sings as normal but when it comes to chai, it will go down to the cage n bring down its wings. It'll sing but using the soft tone. Have tried many ways as suggested by locals here but none seems to work! Appreciate if you could provide some solution worth trying!!

Thanks!!

It always seems impossible until its done


[Reply 27th January 2014]

Hi Ali,

My experience is that the cause of shamas doing what you mention is that they have become too tame.  This happens when they are made to "play the hand" to the extent that they start to treat the hand and humans in general as competing shamas with whom they want to fight.

There are some videos on YouTube of shamas being teased with the hand.  You will see that in every case, the bird will either be silent as it aggressively pecks at the hand or it will sing softly.  Such birds are not suitable for competition.  They may sing and display but even this is usually less than other shamas. However, when they see the judge, they descend to the cage floor, spread their wings and prepare for battle.

Once the male shama has reached this level of tameness, it is difficult to cure its attitude.  I would not bother.  However, if you wish to try, you may want to discourage it from treating the hand as an opponent. You can do this, for example, by using the hand to catch the bird every time it attacks the hand.  After a while, the bird will be afraid of the hand and will not treat it as a competing shama. Be aware that doing so will reduce the bird's form and it will need some time to regain it.

Best regards,

David


My Samyong

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Regular visitors to this site will know that my consistent interest over the years has been the White-rumped shama. I have kept other species of songbirds from time to time, including the Roller and Waterslager canaries, canary crosses, Mockingbirds, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Oriental White-eye, Green-leaf Bird, Chestnut-capped Thrush, Orange-headed Ground Thrush, Skylark, Drongoes, Cardinals, Nightingales, White-crowned Robin Chat, and others.  All of these species, except for the Skylark, are no longer with me. I eventually sold or gave them away as I did not find their song to be sufficiently interesting as compared to the shama.  I will probably also part with the Skylark in due course.

In 2012 I acquired 3 Tieu Mi (Spot-throated Babbler). After listening to their songs when in top form, I also parted with them one by one. The last TM was given away in May 2013 when I got 2 Bare-throated Whistlers.  In Indonesia they are known as Samyong.

I was really interested in the Samyong after I came across text that described them as “Flores Nightingales” and the description of their song as loud and varied. The comparison to the Nightingale especially piqued my interest. By the way, Flores is one of the islands in the Lesser Sunda Straits where the species is endemic.

In May of last year when I had the opportunity to get Samyongs, I searched the videos on YouTube to look for videos on their song and display.  My search at the time did not turn up many videos of the Samyong.  However, one video that I came across fascinated me.  When I wrote about the species on this blog I provided a link to it.

The other few videos that I came across were not as interesting. The songs incorporated sounds of cat mewing, cocks crowing and dogs barking, or other sounds that detracted from pleasant listening. Since then, there have been many more videos of Samyongs on YouTube but not all the songs are uniformly pleasant. The best songs are those from birds in the wild with the birds in cages having songs that incorporate undesirable sounds.

I decided to get 2 Samyongs in May last year. They had been described as tame but I later found that they had been kept from the wild for only about 3 months. This is hardly sufficient time to tame them. At best they could be described as semi-tame.

They converted to dry food without difficulty and I fed them and cared for them in exactly the same way as my shamas. They had dry food during the day until evening when they were offered a bath and insects after that.

One of the birds started to sing after about 2 weeks. The other took much longer. Each song lasted only several seconds and the song of both birds was similar. This is the song that TC has described as weiye, weiye, weiye. It is pleasant sounding but repetitive. I did not hear other songs from them and I made no effort to tame them. I appreciated that the birds would likely perform much better after the molt and decided to kiv my assessment of them until they had good form.

When the Samyongs started to molt, I transferred them to outdoor aviaries. By mid December, one of the birds had completed its molt and I transferred it to a cage.  While still in the outdoor aviary, it had started to sing towards the completion of its molt. This is always a good sign as it suggests that the care during the molt has been better than adequate and that the bird’s form should continue to rise after the molt.

After the transfer of the first Samyong to the cage, he continued to sing his signature song. At home, we refer to him as Samyong 1 to distinguish him from the other, known as Samyong 2.

About a month ago, Samyong One started to have some variety in his song. Initially, its song would last only a few seconds but each passing day saw an improvement in both the variety and length of the song. Now, about a month after his transfer to a cage, the song of Samyong One can be for more than a minute before a slight pause. Each song session lasts 5 to 15 minutes and there may be 2 or 3 sessions during the day.  At other times, it may sing a few notes. Each song session starts with a call, then more calls which increase in number within minutes until the bird is in full song and, in effect, giving a solo concert.

Samyong Two was taken out of the molting aviary only about 2 weeks ago.  He shows promise.  Unlike Samyong One which I secluded because I wanted to hear his developing song, Samyong Two is kept at eye level in the walkway leading to the kitchen so that he can get used to humans.

Over the Chinese New Year holidays, I tried video recording Samyong One’s song with the camera aimed at him but he stops singing if anyone is watching him. To record his song as a video recording I had to half cover his cage so that I was blocked from his view.  To record the video, the camera was pointed to the tree outside my home or to flowering plants in my garden.

So what do I think of Samyong A’s song? Thankfully, it does not have cat mewing, cock crowing and dog barking so he was probably not kept in a village where he could hear them. What I am hearing is likely his native song.  He has picked up some songs since he came to my house.  Amongst these, are the song of the Koel and it can be heard in the videos at the end of this post.

The song consists of a series of notes strung together. Each note may be sung several times before the bird switches to another series of notes. Unlike the shama, the Samyong does not sing tunes. Whereas, the shama incorporates tunes and calls in his song, there are no tunes as such in the Samyongs' songs. They may be described as tuneful calls but not tunes or melodies.  The best comparison of the Samyong’s song is the Australian Lyrebird which is a great imitator of the sounds that it hears.  The Lyrebird is the much better imitator.


When Samyong One started to sing his concert a few weeks ago, his voice was a little rough.  In fact, I notice that many of the Samyongs in captivity have rough voices to a greater or lesser extent.  My experience with Samyong One is that the voice becomes less rough as the bird’s form improves. I expect that the songs of my Samyongs may improve as their form rises and they get used to my care.

I do not know if my interest in Samyongs will continue indefinitely.  This will probably depend on whether or not their songs continue to improve.  The videos below showcase their songs at this time.


Candling shama eggs

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Here’s a useful tip for breeders that Michael shared with me.

For many years I have checked if my shama eggs are fertile by using a Brinsea Egglume light. Michael has noted that the light from a smartphone with camera function is just as effective.  The camera emits a cool light that will not damage the egg.

If you do not as yet have the light function on your smartphone, you will need to download and install the widget so that you can switch the light on and off as needed.  

Place the egg on the light as shown in the photos below and you will be able to see if the egg is developing and the stage of development.

The egg below is an undeveloped egg.




The egg below has been incubated for 6 days.  The blood vessels can be clearly seen.  

Whilst not visible from the photo, at 6 days, the pumping heart of the embryo can be seen.


My Samyong

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Video of Samyong One recorded yesterday.  He has a number of songs and this is one of them.


Honeysucker in my garden

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Every year there are birds nesting in my garden.  It may be a yellow-vented bulbul, dove, mynah or some other species.  Presently, a honeysucker has its nest in my garden.  It is a tiny bird that is not more than 4" in length.  Its long beak enables it to suck the nectar from the flowers and I suppose it chose my garden as its home as the plants are now flowering and there is plenty of nectar for it.  Also, it probably finds the insects that escape into the garden provide the protein that it needs for its young.

The honeysucker has built a beautiful nest hidden in the flowering plants.  Here it is:


The nest is many times larger than the bird.  It has managed to secure the nest to a green leaf and then ingeniously provided top cover by pulling a dead leaf over the nest and binding the leaf to it.

There were 3 eggs in the nest.  One hatched yesterday and this morning there were 2.  I only check the nest when the mother is away.  She perches on the branch of a nearby tree and watches my helper and I as we check the nest.  She does not seem to mind us. I have never seen the father.

I took a photo of the 2 chicks this morning.  In my hurry the photo is not properly focussed.


Just like newly hatched shama chicks, the very young honeysucker chicks do not know to fear humans and they will gape for food when they hear a sound as can be seen in the photo.

My Samyong

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The songs of both my samyongs have continued to improve. Here is Samyong One today.

I no longer recommend shamas sold by Alan Pang.  Please see my post, “Correcting falsehoods”.

Jeffrey's 4 months old taimong

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This juvenile shama was bred by me and it is now owned by Jeffrey Low.  The taimong's tails are more than 6" and the first moult tails can be expected to be in the region of 12"



I no longer recommend shamas sold by Alan Pang.  Please see my post, “Correcting falsehoods”.

Line-breeding and in-breeding

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The first 3 photos below are of Skyhawk's son, Falcon.  He exemplifies the type of shama that I have bred and hope to breed. Like his father, Falcon has soft and aligned tail feathers.  He is more macho than his father and shows what can be achieved with careful selective line-breeding. He is one of my favourite shamas. The last photo is of Funkie's daughter.

This year, I am breeding him for the first time. He has been successfully paired him with Funkie's daughter as I hope to combine the best of Skyhawk's genes and Apache's genes.  BTW, Funkie is the son of Apache.  All of Apache's sons have exhibited great courage and display and, with luck, this will be passed on to the offspring from this pairing.





There is a person who has been breeding shamas for only 2 or 3 years who claimed not long ago that in-breeding and line-breeding ("line-breeding") produces only "nuts and fools". I regret that this shows a complete lack of understanding of the principles and results of selective breeding.

It is a fact that if a breeder starts with inferior stock, he is not likely to get anything special and the progeny will likely be inferior no matter how many generations he breeds his birds.  This is not line-breeding.  Just because this breeder's unknowledgeable attempts at line-breeding produced nuts and fools does not mean that the system itself is at fault. It is this breeder's implementation that was wrong. Anyway, if a breeder has only been breeding indiscriminately for 2 or 3 years, this can hardly be described as line-breeding.

This same breeder has recently said that he is out-crossing this year. Now, unless he has been selectively line-breeding and he has produced a strain of shamas, what he has been doing is not line-breeding and merely adding a new male is hardly out-crossing his stock.  It's merely carrying on the same indiscriminate breeding practices that he has been doing in the past 2 or 3 years and the results are likely to be the same.

Letter from Portugal, incubators and brooders

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Paulo Jorge Pereira
Dec 2 (2 days ago)

December 2, 2013,
Dear David,

I never had the chance to thank you for your introduction to Sjef. I already spoke 
with him over skipe and might pay him a visit in my next travel to Holland. 
Thank you.

I just read your last article on breeding shamas with the help of an incubator. Is there
a special brand you recommend. I'n about to go for a small one, probably an 
RCOM but could use some of your advise.

My male shama just finished the molt and is improving his singing with your Rave, 
as I play him back and forth on Youtube when around. Thanks

Paulo
Portugal


Hi Paulo,
December 2, 2013

I was more than happy to assist.

I use the Brinsea brand of incubators and brooders which I have found to be 
reliable.  The model of the incubator that I use is the Brinsea Octagon 20.  
This is their smallest incubator but it will probably be too large for you if you
only intend to incubate shama eggs.

I have friends who have used the small RCOM incubators and I think they 
should be alright.  I would not use the large RCOM brooder as they seem 
to be intended more for parrots which do not require a relative humidity
higher than 65.
  
The RCOM is very high tech and the relative humidity (RH) cannot be set 
higher than 65 which is too dry for shama chicks. 

I set the relative humidity (RH) for shama chicks at about 80 - 85 which
seems to be just right.

Best regards,

David
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